Just Baking

When it comes to using chocolate with baking, there is a dizzying array of choices … unsweetened, bittersweet and even semisweet.  Then the forms … nibs, chips, blocks and more.  It’s enough to make anyone run from the kitchen, unless you have a good primer. The differences between the types of chocolate relate to the percentage of chocolate liquor it contains, and most American and European brands print the percentage of the chocolate liquor right on the package to make it easier for us.

Fine Cooking magazine recently ran a good primer on what’s what in the world of chocolate.

Semisweet and bittersweet chocolate
Traditionally, these can be used interchangeably, with semisweet giving a slightly sweeter result.  Bittersweet chocolate generally contains less sugar than semisweet, but the distinction between the two types becomes hazy between brands.

Unsweetened chocolate
Unsweetened chocolate contains no sugar and so is about 99% chocolate liquor.  It’s extremely bitter and cannot be used interchangeably with semisweet or bittersweet chocolate.

Milk chocolate
Although popular to eat out of hand, milk chocolate is used less widely in baking than semi- or bittersweet chocolate.  In the US, milk chocolate must contain a minimum of 10% chocolate liquor and 12% milk solids.

Gianduia (gianduja)
This silky-smooth hazelnut-flavored chocolate comes in milk and dark chocolate versions.  The term is also used to describe the flavor pairing of chocolate and hazelnut.

Chocolate chips
Specially formulated morsels that retain their shape and creamy texture without burning when baked, chips are ideal as mix-ins for cookies and quick breads.  Since they contain significantly less cocoa butter, they behave differently than bar chocolate when melted, so it’s best not to substitute chips when bitter or semi-sweet chocolate is called for.  But if a recipe calls for chips, you can often substitute coarsely chopped semi- or bittersweet chocolate.

White chocolate
Technically, this is really chocolate at all since it contains no cocoa solids, only cocoa butter mixed with sugar, milk solids and flavorings.

*Photo from Fine Cooking.